Cracked, Pitted or Peeling?
We Fix It First.

The large majority of damaged garage slabs can be repaired and resurfaced rather than replaced. Cracks, control joints, spalls and pits are cut out, filled and ground flush, and broadly worn surfaces get a resurfacing overlay.

We only recommend replacing the slab when the concrete is structurally failing — heaving, sinking, or crumbling through its full depth — which we confirm during the free on-site inspection before any work begins. See how we decide →

Spalling and pitting are mostly caused by Chicago's freeze-thaw cycles and road salt. Water and de-icing salt soak into the concrete, then freeze and expand, popping small craters and flaking the top surface off the slab.

Uncoated or previously sealed floors are the most vulnerable. Repairing the damage and sealing or coating the slab is what stops it from spreading each winter.

Yes — crack and joint repair is a standard part of every install. Static cracks are chased out and filled with a rigid polymer, spalls and pits are patched with a bonded repair mortar, and everything is ground flush so the finished floor looks smooth instead of highlighting old damage.

Moving control joints can be honored or filled depending on how the floor is used.

Yes. Failed, peeling or hot-tire-damaged coatings are one of the most common repairs we handle. We mechanically grind off the old coating down to sound concrete, repair any damage underneath, then reprofile and apply a new bonded system.

Coating over a failing coating never lasts — removing it first is what makes the new floor stick.

Small crack and spall repairs typically run a few hundred dollars, while full resurfacing before a coating is usually quoted per square foot on top of the coating price.

Because cost depends on how much of the slab is damaged and whether an old coating has to be removed, we confirm an exact price with a free on-site inspection. Most repair-and-coat projects for a two-car garage land between roughly $2,000 and $4,500. See the cost breakdown →

Most repair-and-coat projects are completed in one to two days. Simple crack and spall repairs can be done in a few hours, while stripping a failed coating, resurfacing and applying a new polyaspartic system runs closer to the full window.

We build in the right cure time between repair and coating so everything bonds and lasts.

With a flake or metallic coating, repairs disappear completely — the decorative layer hides any patching underneath. Under a solid-color or clear-sealed finish, well-executed repairs are ground flush and blended, but very large patches can still be faintly visible up close.

If a flawless look matters, a full flake system over the repaired slab is the surest way to get it.